First, there is a difference between DRY skin and DEHYDRATED skin.
Any skin type (combo, dry, oily) can be dehydrated.
How do you know if you're dehydrated?
Your skin sucks up any kind of moisture it can get - your moisturiser disappears quickly, foundation becomes patchy and cakey, you can have a feeling of tightness even when you have oily skin.
Black skin naturally has a weaker ability to hold water, so will be more prone to dehydration.
1. Humectants
2. Emollients
3. Occlusives
The 3 Keys:
1. Humectants
You're probably familiar with the most popular humectants: glycerin and hyaluronic acid (found naturally in your dermis). There's also urea, sorbitol, propylene glycol, glycoprotein and (take a breath) pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (also found naturally in the skin).
These gems attract water from the atmosphere around you, absorb it, and hold it in the skin's surface to give you plump, hydrated skin.
During the rainy humid months it's easier for the humectants to draw moisture from the air.
During the colder drier months there's less in the atmosphere, and the skin surface needs to draw water from the deeper skin layer, the dermis.
Hyaluronic acid needs atmospheric humidity >80% to draw in water. After that it looks to the dermis. Glycerin is able to draw in larger quantities of water even when atmospheric humidity is low.
All Skin Types Can Benefit From Humectants.
They Do Not Add Oil To Your Face.
They Attract Water.
2. Emollients
These are oil based moisturising ingredients that soothe your skin and make it soft, supple and help replace lost lipid content on the skin surface, filling in the spaces between skin cells that are damaged and being replaced (desquamated) and creating a smooth surface. Some emollients have humectant ability and some of occlusive ability.
The emollients you've come across will be oils that contain fatty acids and fatty alcohols: stearic, linoleic, linolenic, oleic and lauric acids. Many plant oils contain these oils, such as grapeseed, rosehip, kalahari melon, squalane, macadamia, argan etc.
All Skin Types Can Benefit From Emollients.
Those With Oily Skin Type May Want to Experiment With The Type of Oils and the Amount and Time of Day They Are Applied (at night might be best).
Each Person Has A Different Preference.
3. Occlusives
Occlusives are the coat you wear over all your other clothes (humectants & emollients) to give you cover and protect (analogy taken from Caroline Hirons's Book "Skin Care").
Oily skin types produce enough sebum (oil) to provide a seal over humectants in dry environments. Drier skin types on the other hand need some help with occlusives. They prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and therefore protect the work you've done applying hydrating and moisturising products.
Occlusives come in the form of petrolatum (Vaseline), silicones (dimethicone etc), heavier oils (argan, borage seen, safflower etc) and waxes (shea, cocoa, mango butters). Once they're on, water is going to have a tougher time penetrating your skin so you need to have your humectants on before applying.
Those With Dry Skin Type Or Dry Skin Patches (Combo) Will Likely Benefit Most.
Those With Eczema & Psoriasis Will Also Benefit.
Putting It All Together
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Step 1 : After cleansing, apply a hydrating toner/mist/serum that contains one or more humectants over still damp skin (remember, the humectant is going to draw that water in and hold it - free hydration!).
Step 2 : After allowing that to sink in for a few seconds, either reapply for added hydration or go straight in with your moisturiser like The Balance.
Step 3 : You can leave it at Step 2 if you are happy with how your skin feels during the day or at night.
For AM, apply an SPF, and you're good to go with make up or just carrying on doing what you need to do. Bye
Step 4 : If you feel like you need another layer of protection (that coat), apply a few drops of facial oil (keep an eye out for the new Doodle facial oil coming out soon ). Go in light with 3-5 drops and let it sink in.
For AM, too much oil can disrupt the even application of SPF, so you want to be careful. Let it sink in before you apply SPF.
Step 5 : All done.
BONUS STEP : You may find that your skin needs added hydration during the day (especially with heaters going). Add a face mist to your collection and spritz your face every now and then.